The phantom-like shape that appeared at the foot of the stairs beamed a welcoming smile. Cool, a friendly phantom. Well, not exactly. Ann’s rather dishevelled appearance at Eliza’s Manor B & B, Christchurch, is to be expected these days. Although she greeted us with her usual warmth (hugs all round), dear lord she was dusty and with the hands of a blacksmith (not that there’s anything wrong with being a blacksmith). It’s all good though. Ann and husband have been given the go-ahead to rebuild Eliza’s which like most other Christchurch heritage buildings, suffered a severe amount of damage from our recent EQ (don’t make me say it aloud). There she was, bless her, mucking in with the tradesmen, stripping down walls etc..
Now some people would have been sunning themselves on a tropical island – someone like me – but not this dear lady. The tradesmen actually whistled and sang while they worked, Ann’s indomitable spirit had obviously taken it’s toll. This is the kind of positivity Christchurch people are now famous for and that’s why the inner city of Christchurch is bouncing back so fast. Eliza’s Manor is being restored to it’s former glory and beyond..can’t wait to see that magnificent staircase again, those large suites.., those barechested workmen…sorry, I mean banquet room woodwork.
When we arrived at the Zealandia Wildlife Sanctory in Karori Wellington, it felt like we were the only people there – and we were. Feeling overjoyed that we’d have the whole place to ourselves (such naivete!) we smugly headed towards the ticket office only to find it was closed! Didn’t WE feel foolish! Be warned dear visitor, this vast paradise doesn’t open until 10am most days. As we slouched against our rental car, we felt a large part of our morning had been wasted, but gotta say it was defintely worth the wait. There’s an additional charge for seeing the exhibit hall and whilst this is incredibly interesting for the internationals, I was bored – attention span of a gnat. Not so however, once we entered the path leading to the sanctuary.
There are some great areas along the way where you’ll come across an array of buttons on a panel – press any one, and they’ll make a birdsong from one of the species represented at the Sanctuary. Some of the folk milling around had become irritated with a tiresome little woman monopolising the panel – After his third and most forceful attempt, Michael managed to drag me away. The thing that struck me so forcibly (no, Michael did not strike me), is that this 550 acre valley of lowland forest and wetlands, is only 2kms from Wellington, yet the tranquility of this paradise will surprise you. My favourite spot (apart from the pushy button area) was the feeding station for the Kakas.
As these large parrots swooped pass just a few feet from my head, I was convinced that had I stood there long enough, that’s where they might have landed. Actually (and I know this might be hard to believe) these cheeky birds left me feeling that their intellect may very well be superior to my own (told you it might be hard to believe). The Karori Wildlife Sanctuary in Wellington is fully fenced from predators so the rarest of these native animals are kept safe. Do take your own liquid refreshments, although there is a restaurant on site should you need it.
We’ve all heard it! “New Zealand’s weather can be unpredictable – sometimes four seasons in one day” This occasionally means that the tour you’re hanging out for is cancelled or certain highlights of a tour excluded. This happened to us recently when we booked a Swim-with-Dolphins-Tour.
“It’s for your own safety, seas too choppy”. After my initial sulk, I imagined how I would cope with being swept out through turbulent seas, accompanied by the smiley dolphins I’d booked to see in the first place (well, they’d still think it was part of the game wouldn’t they?) Looking even further ahead, I could see how such a tragic turn of events would complicate Michael’s life – having to face the endless round of strident questions from bewildered family members.
Tours aren’t cancelled or changed to deliberately annoy us – it’s a safety issue. But there’s good news! In New Zealand, plan B options are in abundance. We found a fabulous little high tech museum nearby – NO pontificating official following us to each exhibit (love the word “pontificate” might use it again). We could have taken a gourmet cooking class at the cooking school close by, just chilled out and watch someone else to the cooking then eat the results (great way to meet the locals). From a 4-wheel high country tour or vineyard/ wine tasting, we had plenty of alternatives. Plan “B” options can be arranged at very short notice, (though it helps if your travel agent actually lives here) It’s all done with a few clicks on the I-phone/I-pad and off you go…but enough of this pontificating!
We arrived at Vangionis at 7.00 and the place was ‘buzzing’. The cutest little maitre d’ looked thrilled to see us. Thrilled! As it was a chilly autumn night, we avoided the outside area – great in summer though. Ok the restaurant gets noisy but it’s casual and child-friendly so that’s to be expected. I’m finding it difficult to concentrate on Jean-Paul’s explanation of the menu, his accent is so beautiful (that’s NOT actually his name by the way). We shared a very nice pizza with a Greek salad (not one wilted leaf in sight). For our last night, we chose “The Little Bistro” – aptly named as it turns out. Michael is 6ft 3ins and was forced to fold in and out of his seat like a pack of cards but did well. Did we like “The Little Bistro”? We loved it! You’re sitting so close to other diners, it’s really ok to join in a conversation with total strangers – a novelty we enjoyed. The food was artfully prepared and I appreciated the staff acknowledging my birthday – complementary dessert wine and a wee candle with my chocolate mousse – slightly miffed when no one broke into a rendition of ‘Happy Birthday’ (just kidding – not). Oh, and another thing, we got to see our little French maitre d’ from Vangionis again – waved furiously at us from across the room. You gotta love small towns!
With the minimum of domestic conflict, Michael and I set off for Akaroa packed to the ‘gunnels’ with clothing for all seasons (you have to in this country – you can experience 4 seasons in the one day and no…neither of us have mastered the art of travelling light) – stopped briefly at the Little River Café/Art Gallery (fabulous food and coffee). Briefly lost Michael on the way back to the car, who has this habit of instantly materialising from one place to another in seconds!
Stopped at The Giant’s House in Akaroa and although it was wet, I have to say the garden positively sang to us! I think it must be the French music playing for the benefit of visitors that allows this magnificent garden to flourish. And what an achingly gorgeous garden – has to be a mammoth task for just one person to maintain. Josie Martin, the owner is an accomplished artist and sculptor. She has purple hair and I think that’s important for what I’m going to say next. Josie’s giant mosaic sculptures are organic with a fantasy element to them. After walking around the property twice, we still couldn’t do it justice. Admittedly I tend to remember the perverse, but the glass nipples should also be noted as should be public toilet that my opinion, is another work of art – this attraction is well worth the $20 entrance fee. You have to see it – now promise me!
We’d finally reached the stage, as we do at this time every year, when we wanted to treat ourselves to a premium experience – someone to take care of us! So we’re driving up the incline drive to Maison de la Mer and note our names have been written on the ‘Welcome’ blackboard (isn’t it lovely to be expected) and yep, there were the owners, Bruce & Carol Hyland ready to greet us. What a beeoootiful property! It looks fabulous on the website but even more scrumptious in reality. Elegant, French , beautiful displays of china and antiques in this petite lodge….love that word ‘petite. It was lovely to enter our warm suite and hear soothing music being played on the stereo – to see my favourite long stemmed white roses, reclining in a vase by the bedside. Since September last year and (you know the date) our nerves have been a little jangled. Carol will never know how much those white roses mean to me!
We’re really enjoying the other two couples staying here and is not a chore to spend an hour in the evening chatting over drinks and nibbles – Well “nibbles” doesn’t exactly describe it – think weeping blue vein cheese, figs, homemade guacamole dip, wafer thin cheese rounds still warm from the oven. Enough! Ok, not quite. The breakfasts are an event – served on a long French oak table laden with unusual, but tasteful cutlery and plates, a tall candle flickering in the centrepiece. Enough! – I need to tell you about the two different dining experiences we’ll be having at Fangiornis and the Little Bistro, but here’s some more of Maison de la Mer.